The Eternal Traveller
Jul 17, 20184 min
“Charm is more valuable than beauty. You can resist beauty, but you cant resist charm”
Audrey Tatou
Old Goa or Velha Goa is a world quite in contrast to the bustling beaches of Goa. As you step in, be ready to be engulfed into the old world charm; body & soul.
With the river Mandovi gracefully flowing by your side through a major stretch of the way, poignant Portuguese houses & quaint little chapels, the ride from Panaji to Old Goa is undoubtedly one of the best in Goa.
All the attractions here are conveniently located close to each other & can be easily covered within a day. The first & the most famed of all is the The Basilica of Bom Jesus or Borea Jezuchi Bajilika, a World Heritage Site. The magnificent facade leads you into a sprawling interior of architectural delight. The golden altar lends the place a ethereal glow & the many intricate elements are sure to leave you spellbound (as is the case with every structure in Old Goa).
Basilica of Bom Jesus – The facade
Basilica of Bom Jesus – Gilded altar
The holy relics of St. Xavier
The church houses the mortal remains of St. Xavier. It is said that before his final resting place in the Basilica of Bom Jesus in 1624, his body was buried in three different countries. Each time the body was unearthed, it was found to be intact! The body of St.Xavier is displayed in a mounted glass case & once in 10 years is brought down for the devotees to pay homage.
Interiors of Church of St. Francis of Assisi
Right opposite to Basilica of Bom Jesus is the Se Cathedral & Church of St. Francis of Assisi. This complex also houses a museum displaying many artifacts from the Portuguese era including a towering statue of Luís Vaz de Camões, Portugal’s legendary poet and composer.
Church of St. Francis of Assisi – Main altar
The Se cathedral has number of small chapels, each exquisite & different from the other. The soaring ceiling, rows of wooden benches, glittering chandeliers & beautiful mosaic work take you on a time travel.
Se Cathedral
Interiors of Se Cathedral
Compared to the magnificent proportions of Se Cathedral, the Chapel of St. Catherine is petite. All that remains of the chapel is the outer structure. There is not much to see inside. But it is worth a stop over for the rustic feel it provides.
Chapel of St. Catherine
The next stop is St. Augustine’s Tower. The church is in ruins with a few walls standing. But the ruins have their own enigma. Brick walls with creepers sprouting through the crevices lend romance to the ruins. The bell tower rises to a height of 46 meters & once housed a huge bell which was later moved in 1871 to the Church of Our Lady Of Immaculate Conception in Panaji.
Ruins of St. Augustine’s Tower
Within walking distance is the small quaint Chapel of St. Anthony, which you cant afford to miss. En route is the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary, which stands on a high ground. Legend has it that Afonso de Albuquerque, the Portuguese general, surveyed his troop’s attack on the Muslim city from here & vowed to build a church there in thanks for his victory. This church has a simplistic beauty about it.
Chapel of St. Anthony
Church of Our Lady of the Rosary
Church of Our Lady Of the Mount is perched on a hilltop with a flight of stairs leading up. Tucked away in a quite corner, this church gives you a sense of serenity. This place is usually locked up but i was told that one can gain entry during the Feast of St Francis Xavier in December and the Monte Music Festival in February.
Church of Our Lady Of the Mount
You can enjoy a beautiful view of the mandovi river, the seaside & the lower grounds of Velha Goa from the church grounds.
After having a delicious lunch at River Isle, which has a mesmerizing view of the river Mandovi, we headed back for the Viceroy’s Arch. The arch was built by Vasco da Gama’s grandson, Francisco da Gama. This marks the entry to the town from the river jetty. You can stop over & admire the stone – brick structure standing across the clean winding road covered by the lush green canopy of trees.
Viceroy’s Arch
Our next & last stop was St. Cajetan’s Church, a piece of Rome in Goa. Modelled on the original design of St Peter’s in Rome, St Cajetan’s Church was built by Italian friars of the Order of Theatines, sent by Pope Urban III to preach Christianity. The glorious exterior promise a spectacular interior & you will not be disappointed in the least.
St. Cajetan’s Church
St. Cajetan’s Church – Main Altar
Right next to the church is the Adil Shah Palace Gateway. The stand alone gateway made of two rock pillars is all that is left of the once grand palace of the sultan.
Adil Shah Palace Gateway
Well folks! That is a wind up on my Goa travels. There is much left to be explored in this beautiful coastal land. Many more beaches to be partied at, many more architectural wonders to be lost in, many more sumptuous meals to be had & many more beautiful people to be met. I hope to go back soon!